Kajal

The graceful, enigmatic kajal

This ubiquitous make-up item goes way back in Indian culture. In ancient India, it was initially applied as a coolant, and to ward off the “evil eye” from young children. It stood as a bold statement against the sun’s glaring heat and eye ailments. In Punjab, the traditions are such that even men wear kajals on special social and religious occasions.Parallel to its usage in India, “kohl” was used in West Africa, North Africa, and the Middle East in a similar way. However, the difference lies in the ingredients. In Africa, it was galena (lead sulphide) ground into paint that was predominantly used for kohl; whereas in India, the primary ingredient was soot.

Preparation

Traditionally, the same method for the preparation of kajal has been carried on by local womenfolk all over India without much change. Natural plant ingredients were used- resulting in a gentle product free from the harshness of heavy metals and other chemicals.

1) A white muslin cloth is dipped in sandalwood paste or in the juice of the Indian Devil Tree.
2) After dipping, it is dried and left in the shade for a few hours.
3) The dip and dry process is repeated for a day.
4) At dusk, the cloth is used to make the wick of a mud lamp. The lamp is lit with castor oil. A brass vessel is placed over the lamp, leaving an air gap for oxygen to facilitate burning. This is left overnight.
5) The next day, a few drops of ghee or clarified butter is mixed with the soot left over from burning.
The kajal is then ready for use. In Bengal, the leaf of a succulent plant called  Monosha is burnt using the lamp. The creamy, soft soot from the burnt leaf is a safe, sterile kajal to apply even on infants

Have we lost the true Kajal?

Fast forwarding to today’s fast-paced cosmetics industry- brands are competing with each other to churn out inventive varieties of kajals that claim to last longer, are variously coloured, waterproof, and so on. Slowly, the purpose of the kajal has shifted to something solely beauty-oriented, and we’ve lost out on its most basic features such as eye-safety, cooling, and medicinal properties.
We’ve all heard the warnings of traces of lead present in kajals. As more and more studies are bringing to light the toxic effects of lead levels in kajal, we need to search out trustworthy brands that use charcoal/soot instead of lead. While making that safe choice, we also need to support brands that are cruelty-free and against animal testing. As responsible consumers, we need to pay attention to the environmental responsibility and stewardship policies of the brand.
Keeping all of this in mind, here is a list of the safest, most environmentally responsible cosmetic brands.

Health benifits of kajal 

The preparation and benefits of Kajal are written in the ancient Ayurvedic treaties dating back to more than 5000 years ago. It is used as a beauty treatment by Indian women since that time.
Kajal, in its authentic recipe, is made of camphor, vegetable oil, and ghee. In Arabic, Kajal means, "coal". The latter is known for its good fixing properties. This coal is obtained by burning some Ghee in an oil lamp, according to the Ayurvedic tradition. The soot obtained through this process is then fixed on copper or silver panels and gathered to make the ghee's coal, which is used to prepare the Kajal. Regarding camphor, coming from the resin of the camphor tree, it has refreshing, astringents and disinfectant properties.
Thanks to its components, naturally rich in therapeutic properties, Kajal enables:
- to moisturise the eyes
- to avoid impurities to get into them
- to freshen them and enhance their shine
- to evacuate tear fluid faster
- to make the little red vessels in the eyes disappear so that they remain white, thanks to its astringents properties